LISTINGS RESTAURANTS

Restaurants: Opposites attract

Saint or sinner? A new concept in dining takes Jo Gardner to K West’s

Kanteen, where a balanced meal awaits

When you’re trying to be good, going to
a restaurant is generally a bit of a no-no — the temptation to tuck into chunky steaks and rich desserts too much to resist. So when I found out about the Saints & Sinners menu at K West Hotel’s Kanteen, I was suitably intrigued.

The simple concept — a double-sided menu offering saintly fare on one side (depicted by an angel) and sinful nosh on the other (shown by a devil) — means diners can mix and match dishes in a bid to offset the good with the bad. The yin and yang of eating out, perhaps?

My dining partner and I decided to take one side each and order all three courses without prior consultation, with a view to sharing everything. A recipe for disaster? Maybe.

Choosing the saintly side — you can’t really give a man that job — I opted for Portobello mushrooms with beetroot and apricot pesto to start followed by seared salmon fi llet with warm pearl barley. Tasty, yet fairly innocent. Que halo.

Meanwhile, over in hell, chicken dumplings with a teriyaki dipping sauce arrived, followed by hake on a bed of spinach with a poached egg drowning in hollandaise sauce. While both meals were delicious, I have to admit to preferring my courses, despite them being the lighter options. Perhaps I’ll go to heaven after all.

By the time dessert arrived, however, my halo was slipping fast as a saintly apple tart lay untouched in favour of the sinfully rich sticky toffee pudding with chocolate pour-on sauce. As I undid my good work with each mouthful, I couldn’t help feel a little bit guilty. But when things taste this heavenly, who cares. Besides, I’m sure I’m going to hell anyway. www.k-west.co.uk/kanteen.htm

MONGOLIAN BARBECUE

12 Maiden Lane, WC2E 7NA. Leicester Square

T: 020 7379 7722.
www.themongolianbarbecue.co.uk
Proof that whatever style of food you want in London, you’ll fi nd it.

MOTI MAHAL

45 Great Queen Street, WC2B 5AA. Covent Garden

T: 020 7240 9329. www.motimahal-uk.com Tandoori cooked in a traditional clay oven.

NOBU LONDON

19 Old Park Lane, W1K 1LB. Hyde Park Corner

T: 020 7447 4747. www.noburestaurants.com This celeb hit offers innovative Japanese cuisine with a South American infl uence.

NOURA CENTRAL

122 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 4UJ.
Piccadilly Circus

T: 020 7839 2020. www.noura.co.uk/central Refi ned, elegant Lebanese cuisine served in sumptuous surroundings.

OOZE

62 Goodge Street, W1T 4NE.

Goodge Street
T: 020 7436 9444.
www.ooze.biz
London’s fi rst risotto-only bar offers a number of innovative creations, including Scottish salmon, sea bass, meatballs and butternut squash.

PEARL

252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN.
Holborn

T: 020 7829 7000.
www.pearl-restaurant.com
Head chef Jun Tanaka demonstrates a
light and modern touch on classic French cuisine in the restaurant of the Renaissance Chancery Court Hotel.

PIERRE VICTOIRE

5 Dean Street, W1D 3RQ.

Tottenham Court Road

T: 0871 075 2997.
www.pierrevictoire.co.uk
Friendly service and atmosphere with a French menu that’s well received. Large parties are welcome, along with intimate dinners.

PING PONG

45 Great Marlborough Street, W1F 7JL.

Oxford Circus

T: 020 7851 6969.
www.pingpongdimsum.com
Steamed dim sum, fried rolls and a good, accessible menu full of Chinese delights. Worth trying are the Mixed Lunch or Dumpling Fix set platters.

PIZZA EXPRESS

24 New Globe Walk, SE1 9DS. / London Bridge

T: 020 7401 3977.
www.pizzaexpress.co.uk
Dotted all over London, this chain follows a successful formula: serve great pizzas in airy, family-friendly spaces.

PLANT

47 Poland Street, W1F 7NB.

Oxford Circus
T: 020 7734 7528.

Vegetarian fast food restaurant for take away should you wish, or head to the restaurant
at the back for the sit-down menu or buffet. There are plenty of vegan and dairy-free options, too.

ANTEEN

IMAGE: K

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